Update: T’Ang Court was awarded a third Michelin star in December 2015…
I’ll admit that, like many, I’m pretty loathe to regularly leave Hong Kong island to eat. It’s a ridiculous conceit, of course. In any other global city, you wouldn’t think twice about a ten minute subway ride to hit up somewhere new or interesting. As such I’m making a concerted effort to more regularly extend my footprint beyond the Island Line. Starting with T’ang Court at the Langham in TST.
Door to door from home in Causeway Bay it takes all of 26 minutes, barely time to crawl along the Wan Chai section of Gloucester Road at rush hour. On arrival, the 3rd floor dining room doesn’t benefit from much natural light, which is a shame as in one part of the room dark red drapes are suspended from the ceiling. It’s a curious effect, more Bedouin tent than Tang Dynasty.
However the five private dining rooms are named after famous Tang Dynasty poets – Tai Bai, Le Tian, Zi Shou, Bai Yu and Zi Mei – while silks and sculptures soften the overall feel. Most importantly, lunch served by exec chef Kwong Wai Keung is enough to keep eyes on the prize.
This was dim sum lunch, à la carte, and as I was invited by the Langham PR folks I deferred to them on the ordering:
Pan-fried rice flour rolls with home-made spicy sauce led the mouth from a crunchy coating through to a doughy, chewy interior, a classic mix of textures and mouth feel. I could have done with more XO spice, but as Tom Jones would say, that’s not unusual.
‘Golden-fried pastries filled with diced scallops and citrus honey syrup’ were a new combo on me but made for a quickly-dispatched bite.
Two rounds of dumplings featured quality workmanship, as you’d expect in a two star kitchen, gossamer thin dumpling skin in the first: Steamed shrimp, pork, lettuce and bamboo shoot dumplings
While the second were the old favourite, steamed shrimp and pork:
Steamed barbecued pork buns had to follow, but weren’t as exceptional as I was hoping from such a renowned kitchen. The ratio didn’t feel quite right:
Back on track though with some excellent stewed asparagus in fish soup, super-thin allumettes of Yunan Ham the final flourish.
The best was saved to last in the form of baked seafood rice with cream sauce in crab shell. Hilarious presentation and very good eating. Cream sauce, cheese and the heat of a grill can never do any harm to food:
All the dim sum are $68 for four pieces, the crab rice $120, which seems pretty fair for Cantonese cooking at this level.
T’ang Court, The Langham, Hong Kong
8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2378 9308 http://www.langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/hong-kong/dining/tang-court/