Review date: June 17, 2014
Total score: 7.4/10
Another glorious New York summer’s day, a stroll in the Village, swing by the Spotted Pig. If there’s a pub which is easier on the eye in New York, I’m yet to find it:
Last time I was here, with my wife, we were told lunch would be a two hour wait. Fugeddaboutit. This time I’m flying solo and rock up at opening time, to be given a seat overlooking the normally busy and buzzy dining room:It’s part pub, part teahouse, part boho mishmash, but it’s clearly got some soul to it. As has the music. Grandmaster Flash imploring me not to do white lines. If you insist. Glass of crisp rosé goes down a treat instead as I check the day’s menu:
First up, the simplest and best of the three dishes. Beautiful cured rollmops, with crème fraîche, flaked chili and herbs. Bang on. Would easily have doubled down. Simple ingredients, beautifully matched.(8/10)
Next up the Cubano sandwich. Pains me to say it, but pretty unremarkable. Not bad, just a bit meh. A French roll piled with beef, cheese – but any salsa or spice from Cuba clearly stopped off in Miami and stayed there. Zingy lemon arugula salad sparked it up slightly. (6.5/10)
I was one of the few lunchers not to order a burger. I’d say 80% of diners were having them. Is that not dispiriting for the clearly talented Michelin-awarded chefs under the brilliant April Bloomfield? I don’t know. But when they’re not selling burgers they’re known for their nose-to-tail approach and love of the swine, with offal maestro and all-round culinary hero Fergus Henderson on occasion taking over the kitchens.
Redemption for the Cuban sandwich crisis came in the form of a Rhubarb tart with more of that crème fraîche, nuts and caramel. (7.5/10) Service was solid, but not overly smiley, which suits me just fine. For ‘experience’, given buckets of charm at the venue and a decent price point, 8/10.
The Spotted Pig – 314 W 11th @ Greenwich St, New York. T: 212-620-0393 http://thespottedpig.com/