Soi 7 Review date: June 29, 2015
60 Second review so no score
It’s just past noon on a scorching hot Monday at the end of June. Thai food is probably not near the top of most people’s lunch choices. Sometimes, however, your neurons send out a call to chili. It’s a call which cannot go unanswered.
Business at Wyndham Street newcomer Soi 7 is pretty quiet, but the welcome is as warm as the air outside. The decor is a mix of quirky and cute, notably some excellent photos of the Thai Royal Family from back in the day.
There are the all-too-ubiquitous Edison lightbulbs, old film posters and other assorted bits. It’s certainly not as dramatic as the very odd launch press release would have you believe. The set menu has five starters and five mains, from which the gyoza and chicken pa krow jump out.
I know that gyoza are about as Thai as I am, but I was thinking they’d have some intriguing Siamese spin put on them. Not so. Three tiny pillows arrival. The serving is laughably small, so much so that they’re dwarfed by a coriander leaf, while the casing tastes more like pancake batter than the classic dumpling cloak. The advertised pork is there in a ball, as is a vinegar dip, but the ‘ginger soy sauce’ is nowhere to be seen – or tasted.
Glorious sounds of the wok heat being controlled in the kitchen, like a hot air balloon testing the gas before take off, heralded the arrival of Chicken ka prow, that Thai classic of basil leaves and chilli. The chilli call was certainly answered with a stonking surge of heat, along with ginger in chunks the size of almonds. The holy basil and fish sauce were both pretty muted, but it was a solid enough lunch plate.
The damage, including a lime soda, was a not insubstantial $163. Given the cheaper set lunch prices at Wyndham stalwarts Wagyu and Pastis, in addition to newcomers like Chaky’s and Bungalow, then Soi 7 seems to have work to do to bring in the crowds from the heat.
G/F, 57 WYNDHAM STREET, CENTRAL http://www.soi7.com.hk/ +852 2840 0041