Let’s cut to the chase. It’s a soft ‘c’, so it’s essentially ‘Resh’. One thing about a questionable name, at least when pronounced in a foreign language, is that it’s memorable and also gets people talking, which is most of the marketing battle won. It’s the new incarnation of what was Spoon, both of which of course fall under the empire of the culinary maestro Alain Ducasse. He’s affable and immensely-talented, somehow managing to balance an extraordinary global schedule and portfolio. Here’s my interview with him, from a couple years back.
Anyway Rech looks very different from Spoon, even if those harbour views are still as jaw-dropping. The feel is much more casual, brighter and breezier, thanks to the touch of designer Marie Deroudilhe.
Dinner starts with some excellent bread – naturally – as well as Hong Kong’s cutest butter, leaving no doubt to the main theme of the place:
There are some seaweed crackers with a tasty little dip of tuna, olive oil and capers, followed by impeccable oysters, as you would expect. There are Fines de Claires then my favourite, the Rolls Royce of bivalves, Gillardeau, produced near La Rochelle by the same family since 1898, they re-redefine plump. None of your forgettable, watery little sneezes which so often pass for oysters in Hong Kong.
But sourcing great quality produce is (comparatively) easy so the real test comes later, starting with ‘club crab and mango’ ($240). The way it had been pitched, I was expecting a crab club sandwich of sorts. What came was an undoubtedly tasty assembly of great ingredients, but it didn’t work as a concept and quickly became more of a salad. Still very nice eating, but not in the way I’d expected.
Thereafter a perfect rendition of one of the world’s great fish, skate wing ($440), reminded why our French friends are such masters of seafood. It was an exceptional cut, beautifully cooked, served Grenobloise style, in other words with croutons, capers and lemon zest. It was utterly, ridiculously delicious. I’d come back to Rech for this dish alone.
Dessert bought the old standby of rum baba, but this being Rech, you could choose your douse of choice. Venezuela’s sensational Diplomatico won my vote.
All told, Rech is another quality offering from Monsieur Ducasse and team, serving plates to match the quality of that view. If you’re keen to try it without going all-in at dinner, there’s a summer Sunday lunch offering of incredibly-good value: a 4-course set with choices of appetiser, main course and dessert, plus Rech’s legendary Camembert, at $588 per person.