As its name would suggest, Pierchic lies at the end of a long wooden jetty, reaching into the warm turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf. It boasts unrivalled views of the Burj Al Arab, one of the world’s most iconic buildings, as well as the twinkling lights of the sumptuous Madinat Jumeirah resort running the length of the beach behind.
It is, by any measure, a beautiful setting, attested to by the number of successful marriage proposals made there. It’d be a hard heart not to be wooed by the location and young British chef Rosalind Parsk delivers plates with which it is difficult not to fall head over heels in love.
The affable Parsk’s constant smile belies a hard-earned resumé, one that could not read more impressively. She worked under Marco Pierre White at the Belvedere before three years with Angela Hartnett at The Connaught, a one Michelin-starred Mayfair institution. This was followed by a move to Dubai leading the kitchen for Britain’s culinary king of Brylcreem, Gary Rhodes. For the past three years she has overseen Pierchic’s short but compelling menu that specialises in the finest seafood from around the world.
Carpaccios, ceviches and risotti were overlooked for the starter as, on chef’s advice, the scallops were the way forward. Oh my. It’s another classic example of a dish that shouldn’t work in theory, yet triumphs in practice. The beautifully-seared bivalves by themselves are the finest I’ve eaten in a very long time, their innate sweetness teased out by flames on the grill. But then, underneath and around them, a glorious tapioca pearl barley cut through with vanilla and bergamot butter. Bergamot, that schizophrenic Calabrian citrus fruit that’s the size of an orange but the colour of a lemon. It plays its role to perfection, sharpness and sweetness and lift through the rich butter.
More fish to follow in the form of roasted yellowtail with celery root, allumettes of green apple and a decadent black truffle jus. A jug of extra black truffle jus was provided, just in case. It reminded how these bruisers of the ocean can become a sublime and delicate joy at the hands of seriously-skilled fish experts. For the second course running, fruit bought sweetness and light to the richness, here the thin sticks of apple. That pureé disappeared all too soon.
After some serious eats over the preceding days, dessert was foregone, but the kitchen sent out some petits fours, just in case. Seaberry (nope, no clue either, it’s here) macaroons and a couple pyramids of minty chocolate good times, like the result of a one night stand between an After Eight and a Toblerone. Brilliant, delicious and perfectly-executed.
+971 4 366 5866 Jumeirah Al Qasr hotel at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai https://www.jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/madinat-jumeirah/restaurants–bars/pierchic/