Kam’s Roast Goose review, January 30, 2015
60 second review so no score
There are few more iconic culinary sights in Hong Kong than slabs of roast pork, goose and duck siu mei (燒味) suspended from hooks, the ultimate showcase of Cantonese cuisine to beckon in hungry pedestrians. One look at the meat and you can tell the quality of the restaurant. A sticky and gelatinous shine here, a crisp belly there.
Alongside, a cleaver-wielding chef in a Sweeney Todd overall oversees an executioner’s block of wood, effortlessly hacking and chopping his way through bone and flesh alike.
Kam’s Roast Goose has a soap opera of history. A family feud from the owners of the palatial (and I feel always-overrated) Yung Kee in Central saw sons and heirs head their separate ways, with Kinsen Kam Kwan-sing opening up in Wan Chai.
The traditional holy trinity is roast pork叉燒, goose 燒鵝 and duck 燒鴨 but there’s always the slightly-terrifying orange squid or steamed chicken for the unadventurous. However I always – always – go just for cha siu, roast pork. I know, it’s absurd to go to a restaurant with ‘Roast Goose’ in the title and not order it, but there you go. Maybe it’s because pork is the greatest and most versatile meat on the planet, maybe it’s the marinade of honey, five-spice, dark soy sauce, hoisin and rice wine. You don’t need me to tell you how good it is. So go, get there when it opens at 11am otherwise you’ll have a long wait on less-than-fragrant Hennessy Road. You get a preserved egg with ginger to waken up the palate with a gentle earthquake;
Before the real reason you came here:
It may not look it, but this is truly one of the greatest plates anywhere. The popularity of siu mei is also obvious not only when you taste it, but also when you see the average size of Hong Kong kitchens and realize how rotisserie roasting ovens are hardly the first appliance you’d choose when you barely have space for a toaster.
Kam’s Roast Goose, G/F Po Wah Commercial Center, 226 Hennessey Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong Tel. +852 2520-1110