FLINT HONG KONG

Flint, J W Marriott Hong Kong: Strike a light


  12.02.17    Hong Kong


After eleven years living in Hong Kong, coupled with the city´s penchant for hotel dining, it dawned on me that I´d never previously eaten at the J W Marriott in Pacific Place. That´s now changed and, with the Flint Grill and Bar doing its thing, it´s fair to say I´ll be heading back again.

As with all steakhouses, especially those in high end hotels, its dark and masculine with slate aplenty. It´s also a big space with very generously spaced tables. At the helm is the immensely-likeable British chef with a South African name, Pieter Fitz-Dreyer.  He had worked at Michelin-starred spots and formerly overseen restaurants across London, so he clearly knows his onions.

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Lunch with a fellow former CNN stalwart was excellent from the word go. A quartet of hot, soft rolls were waiting to be ripped apart and spread with butter. There´s far too much bad bread in Hong Kong restaurants.

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Then came grilled Basque octopus with stewed chickpeas, eggyolk jam and sourdough. This is a feature common across the menu, namely that the descriptions are bang-on. No silly minima-list of one word ingredients or overly flowery mini novellas. Just describing food that you really want to eat.

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Likewise with the ´beef cheek bourguignon with smoked bacon, wild mushroom and horseradish mash´- what is not to love in those eleven words? It tells you everything you need to know.

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On my side of the table, the Nebraska grain fed ribeye was an absolute monster – in a good way. Because I like my meat indeed.

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Sticky toffee pudding with dates, hot toffee sauce, oatmeal crumble and caramel ice cream was a pretty deconstruction, but didn´t add much to the original. Given his sure hand at the stove, Fitz-Dreyer would doubtless deliver a knockout traditional, old-school version. I live in hope and look forward to returning to try it.

FLINT HONG KONG