Fischers Fritz, Berlin: Ich war ein berliner

  08.07.14    Germany     Michelin Stars

I flew solo for this lunch, an experience that can sometimes be  intimidating in a Michelin-starred eatery. Not so at Fischers Fritz, where the service and welcome was warm and friendly despite the very opulent surroundings. Think Christofle cutlery, chandeliers, wood panelling and gilt aplenty.

Fischers Fritz

The set lunch kicked off with a ‘seafood cocktail’ which delivered more than the name suggested. It was a delicious heady mix of crab, mussels, diced potatoes, mayonnaise, chervil and citrus. Small but perfectly formed, until that is I bit into a small shard of crab shell. It was tiny, but your teeth don’t lie when it hits. I didn’t say anything to the staff but left it on the plate – it’s a shame it detracted from what was a delightfully nuanced and balanced dish. But for a 2 starred restaurant, you’d hope it’s not the sort of oversight they’d make if an inspector was in the house.
Fischers Fritz

The main was a take on Hungarian pork, served under red peppers and with a paprika trail to the side.  The pork wasn’t effectively seasoned and didn’t deliver much of a punch, but it came with an intriguing and moreish pureed potato and sauerkraut combo, cut through with herbs.

Prior to the dessert, a beautiful sweet amuse bouche – sweet canola with corn coulis. A stunning little dish. The actual dessert was very good too, featuring Aniseed ice cream, chocolate orange mousse, served with a ‘toast disc’ on top and gold leaf. I thought ‘toast disc’ was a typo or lost in translation, but it really was just a disc of toast. It provided a clever contrast in texture, as did a small pile of sweet crumbs on the side.

Good bread made up for a surprising lack of petits fours at the end of the meal. The check came in at 47 euros for 3 courses at lunch, not including wine. Was it worth it? For the food, probably – but with the service, the room and the experience, it added up to a bargain way to experience one of Germany’s longest-held 2 star restaurants.

Fischers Fritz, Charlottenstraße 49, 10117 Berlin, Germany