Gough’s on Gough: The Best of British

  07/17    Hong Kong

A cracking dinner with impeccable service at newly-opened Gough’s on Gough proves the old maxim, ‘so good, they named it twice’.


Rhoda, Hong Kong: Making the family proud

  07/16    Hong Kong

Rhoda is the latest home of Nate Green, a seriously-talented chef who manages to create and serve some of the most exciting plates in town, day in and day out.

The Fat Pig, Hong Kong: Swine merchants

  12/15    Hong Kong

The Fat Pig review date: December 7, 2015 As is often the case, Bill Murray recently nailed it: Pork is indisputably – at least in my mind – the greatest and most versatile meat on the planet. So a new addition to the Times Square tower of restaurants, The Fat Pig, had my name all …

London House by Gordon Ramsay, Hong Kong: Hallelujah


London House review date: September 17, 2015 Bulldogs was never somewhere I chose to frequent. Even if Hong Kong is chronically short of decent pubs, for me it never counted as one. Their TST branch closed recently, to be replaced by “London House by Gordon Ramsay”. I turn up from the Mody Road side so enter through …

Jimmy's Kitchen

Jimmy’s Kitchen, Hong Kong: A gentler time

  06/15    Hong Kong

Jimmy’s Kitchen review date: June 3, 2015 You’ll know it by the Beef Stroganoff of Wong Beef Rice. Maybe it’s the Steak Diane or Sole Veronique. Dishes that speak of an earlier, quieter, gentler time, before people spent longer photographing their meal than actually eating it. Dinners when conversation flowed – and if it didn’t, a temporary …

The Saint Hong Kong

The Saint, Hong Kong: McSorely missed

  02/15    Hong Kong

The Saint, Hong Kong: Review date, February 15 60 second review, so no score   McSorley’s Old Ale House in the East Village is hailed as the ‘oldest Irish tavern in New York City’, open since 1854. It’s certainly not lacking in character, with no item of decoration having been removed since 1910, while women were only …

Kinsale Hong Kong

Kinsale, Hong Kong: Fail, Caesar

  02/15    Hong Kong

Kinsale review date: Jan 26, 2014 60 second review, so no score Kinsale is a small town with a famous food festival, nestled on one of the most beautiful parts of the wild and windswept Cork coast in the south east of Ireland. (Coincidentally, I’m heading back there in March and looking forward to it, interviewing Rachel …

Continental Hong Kong

Continental, Hong Kong: An entente cordiale

  12/14    Hong Kong

Continental review date: December 16 Overall score: 8/10 When one of the genuine pioneers of contemporary British cooking opens a restaurant in Hong Kong, another marker is thrown down in the uber-competitive dining scene. Few chefs are as experienced as Rowley Leigh. To put it in context, he was cooking with the Roux brothers at London’s …

The Pawn Hong Kong

The Pawn, Hong Kong: Never mind the Botanicals

  11/14    Hong Kong

The Pawn review date: November 25, 2014 Overall score: 7.7/10 NB: I was invited to dine at The Pawn following an interview I did with Tom Aikens last month. You can read that piece here. When I interviewed The Pawn’s culinary director Tom Aikens recently, it was clear from the off that he meant business. No …